I am frequently asked questions that relate to caring for shrubs, plants, hedges and lawns. But it's not often that I get asked about caring for trees... until it's obvious the poor old tree is in some kind of serious – and probably mortal – danger.
Why is that? Why are we likely to devote more time to the care and nurture of a small shrub than to a tree that might rise twenty, thirty or more feet high and occupy a sizeable portion of our landscape? After all, if a small shrub dies, we can remove it fairly easily and replace it for only a few dollars. But removing a dead tree can be a difficult and sometimes very costly undertaking. So why don't we seem to think much about caring for trees?
I believe the main reason is that we tend to take trees somewhat for granted. Like clouds and soil and taxes, they're just... THERE. After all, there are entire forests that seem to get on very well without any help from humankind, thank you very much.
Maybe that's the crux of the matter. Trees in forests in sparsely inhabited areas don't have to fight the man-made problems that challenge the trees in your city or suburban environment. And whereas your trees might not need quite as much care and attention as the orchids in Nero Wolfe's roof garden, you cannot expect them to thrive (or even survive) without some degree of care and attention.
If it helps to motivate you, think of your trees as a real investment that will appreciate in beauty and financial worth, adding to the potential resale value of your property. Which is more than can be said for the Yugo in your garage.
How do you go about caring for your trees?
The first step is to inspect your trees fairly regularly, say every few months or so, to spot any changes in their health before the problem gets out of hand. Look for signs that your tree is healthy, because the absence of these signs indicates the need for action before the more obvious indications of disease or damage appear – by which time it might be too late.
Do you notice a reduction in the appearance of buds and new leaves? This is a likely indicator that there's been a change in your tree's health. Look at leaf size. Do leaves appear stunted, spotted or deformed? Are twigs continuing to grow? Now look up. You're looking for signs of "crown dieback" which is the gradual dying off of the top part of the tree. Also look for early signs of trunk decay, such as the presence of little mushroom-like fungi.
If you find any early signs that your tree is getting sick, call a reputable garden center or your local Extension service operated by a nearby University. And you're welcome to send an e-mail to steve@landsteward.orgwith a question about a specific tree problem and I'll do my best to help.
As for preventive care, in previous columns I've talked about the importance of watering, and the dangers of over-watering, and you can find those columns archived under "The Plant Man" on my website.
Additionally, my advice is to remember the importance of mulching and fertilization. When you mulch you stabilize the root environment keeping it cooler and more moist than the surrounding soil. Mulch as big an area as is practical beneath the tree's "drip line" Place mulch two to four inches deep, but be careful not to cover the base of the tree trunk to avoid trunk decay.
Fertilization can help your tree resist certain diseases and pests and can actually provide a "tonic" for a tree in poor health. A word of caution: you can waste your money unless you select a fertilizer with the correct pH and nutrient content for your soil condition. Take a soil sample and send it to a testing laboratory, or ask your garden center to do this for you.
If you haven't done so in a while, plan some "tree inspection" time this weekend!
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org or mail to: Steve Jones, "The Plant Man", P.O. Box 686, McMinnville, TN 37111. For resources and additional information, including archived columns, visit www.landsteward.org often.
QUESTION: "Can you tell me what in the holly line of shrubs would be suitable for a small area in between our house and sidewalk. It is about 20 ft long and around 3 ft wide." - Larry Jones.
ANSWER: There are several good holly plants that you can get from a reputable local garden center. Try Blue Boy or Blue Girl. They stay green year round and do produce berries. You might also want to try Hellerii Holly. Though it does not have berries, it stays green and beautiful year round. Also, a Delcombe holly comes to mind, with lustrous green foliage and bright red berries.
